To Co-Ferment or Not to Co-Ferment?
Co-fermentation in coffee is a divisive subject, with strong opinions on both sides of the argument. As fans of innovation and outside-the-box thinking in coffee (or any pursuit, for that matter), we were immediately intrigued when co-fermented coffees first crossed our cupping table a handful of years ago. The flavors were explosive, watermelon bubblegum, passionfruit smoothie, mojito, nothing subtle about them, they were shouting from the cup. Our first reaction?
“Holy crap, this is the future of coffee.”
But after the initial thrill came the questions. Was it really the future of coffee or just a distraction? Are we heading down the same road as craft beer with its strawberry milkshake IPAs and maple bacon donut stouts? Do we want to see a future for coffee that is more about novelty than nuance?
What Makes Coffee Special
One of the things that first drew us to coffee is its incredible ability to transport the drinker to the place it was grown. In a well-grown and well-processed coffee, we’re tasting the soil’s chemistry, the farm’s microclimate, the distinct strains of wild yeast guiding natural fermentation.
We taste lineage; hundreds of cultivars that trace their origins to Ethiopia, each developed through centuries of evolution and human selection. It’s this intersection of nature and human ingenuity that gives coffee its unmatched capacity for complexity and surprise, an agricultural product that can evoke florals, fruits, spice, and sweetness without needing to add anything.
So, is co-fermentation the next step forward, or is it covering up what makes coffee fascinating in the first place?
The Transparency Question
As co-fermentations spread, so do questions about transparency. We’ve cupped coffees that taste so perfectly “flavored” it’s hard to believe they came from fermentation alone. And, increasingly, we’re hearing reports from origin: coffees being dosed with extracts, essential oils, and fruit powders, sometimes after fermentation and during the drying stage, often without disclosure.
So, where’s the line? If you’re adding watermelon to the tank, is it still coffee or is it flavored coffee with better marketing? How can one tell whether that “watermelon co-ferment” gets its flavor from microbial activity or a bottle of watermelon extract? And if it tastes good to you, does that even matter? We think it does. Not because we’re purists, but because honesty matters. As an industry, specialty coffee has worked for decades to build transparency and traceability. Co-fermentations, especially those boosted with additives, blur that line and risk eroding the trust between producers, roasters, and drinkers.
Social Impact
We won’t get too deep into the economics of inequality here, but it’s hard to ignore that the coffees being celebrated for “innovation” often come from those already in the best position to afford it. Being well-resourced isn’t inherently negative, but historically, this type of dynamic in coffee has too often led to consolidation and deeper inequality across the supply chain.
It’s also troubling when coffees that stand out because of producer skill, micro-climate, and varietal selection are overlooked in favor of coffees that have been altered to taste more dramatic. Is it good for the industry if coffees of genuine excellence are passed over for those modified to amplify flavor?
And how far off is this from the flavor alteration of roasted coffee, something the specialty industry moved away from long ago? Are we saying altering flavor in green coffee is innovation, while altering flavor in roasted coffee is passé?
Who Gains?
Most, though not all, co-fermented coffees are made from lots that, in their unaltered state, wouldn’t stand out or command a high price. In that sense, co-fermentation can elevate lower-grade coffees into something special, creating access to higher-value markets. That’s a concept we can respect: making something remarkable from something modest.
But the reality is that most producers don’t have access to the resources to make co-ferments themselves. True co-fermentation requires significant investment in equipment and infrastructure, which puts it out of reach for most. Reports from origin suggest that many of these coffees are being purchased as cherry or parchment at market price by larger producers, then altered and sold as their own. In these cases all transparency can be lost. That raises an uncomfortable question: is this the future of coffee we want, or a repetition of its past?
Homogenization of Flavor
Which brings us to where we are now. If traditionally great coffees fall out of favor in exchange for co-ferments, we risk losing the diversity and uniqueness that makes coffee compelling.
Have you ever tasted a lychee co-ferment? How about six of them, side by side? Beyond the slight differences in roast or process, they all share one thing, they taste strongly like lychee. That’s fun for a while, but it also flattens the landscape. The world of coffee is vast and varied; reducing it to a handful of predictable, manufactured flavors feels like a loss of its essence.
Innovation or Imitation?
There’s endless room for innovation in coffee, adapting to climate change, improving soil health, creating fairer access to markets, technical breakthroughs in agriculture and roasting, etc. Those are areas where creativity and collaboration matter most.
But altering the flavor of coffee to override its origin and varietal character doesn’t feel like progress. It feels like distraction. Coffee already offers infinite diversity when left to nature, patience, and skill.
Drink What You Love
At the end of the day, coffee should bring joy. If you love co-fermented coffees, drink them. Explore them. See what you think.
For us, though, our focus stays on coffees that speak of place, culture, lineage and craft; coffees that show what’s possible through nature and skill, not additives and trends.
That’s why you won’t find co-ferments in our lineup. Not because we fear change or can’t source them (holy moly do we get a lot of offers), but because we value transparency, diversity, and truth in flavor. Those are the innovations worth protecting.